Olfactive Families - Introductions

 

Both feminine, masculine and shared by men and women fragrances have been divided into seven basic groups -or fragrances families- which have then been split into subdivisions.

 

A CITRUS

By "citrus", we mean the essential oils obtained by extracting the zest from fruits such as bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, etc., combined with orange flower products. In this group we find the main "Eau de Cologne" fragrances used by men and women.

 

A1 CITRUS

 

A2 SPICY CITRUS

To that citrus accord, spicy notes such as clove or pepper, nutmeg or cinnamon are added to the citrus structures.

 

A3 AROMATIC CITRUS

The citrus structure is modified by the addition of aromatic notes, such as thyme, marjoram, rosemary, or mint.

 

A4 FLORAL CHYPRE CITRUS

These represent a new generation of "Eau de Cologne". The citrus note is still prominent, but it is jointed by other fresh notes and extended by a floral note, which is predominantly jasmine at first and then becomes woody and mossy.

 

A5 WOODY CITRUS

Still the same "citrus" accord, but slightly weaker. The floral note is barely detectable. The woody and slightly powdered base is more predominant.

 

A6 FLORAL WOODY CITRUS

Some light floral notes included in the citrus accord, with some very different woody notes.

 

A7 MUSKY CITRUS

To the citrus structure, we add a strong musky character which is instantly perceptible as well as some floral and woody notes. The musk note refers to the synthetic musks rather than to the animalic, natural tonkin musk.

 

 

B THE FLORAL FAMILY

This family consists of fragrances with a single flower as their main theme : jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, violet, tuberose, narcissus, etc.

 

 

B1 SOLIFLORE

Used when a single floral note is needed. This is the beginning of modern perfumery. A copy of nature with the reconstitution of a rose, jasmine, violet, lilac, lily of the valley...

 

B2 FLORAL MUSKY

On a floral accord, the musky note is present right away. We also find fruity, woody or aldehydic notes.

 

B3 FLORAL BOUQUET

Nature is still the source of inspiration but several floral notes are associated as in a bouquet of flowers. The composition becomes more complex, and raw materials are much larger in number.

 

B4 FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

It still is a floral bouquet, often extended by the addition of animal notes, powdery, slightly woody. The top note is always made up of aldehydes, associated with citrus or floral notes.

 

B5 FLORAL GREEN

A fresh and predominantly green note was added to a floral complex to give a sharp freshness. Galbanum is typical of the type of product used in this category.

 

B6 FLORAL FRUITY WOODY

On a floral bouquet, with a woody undertone, fruity notes are added : peach, apple, plum or apricot.

 

B7 FLORAL WOODY

The floral note, most important here, could be violet, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley or another flower. There are various top notes : citrus, herbaceous in particular. Followed by mostly woody, powdery, vanilla like notes.

 

B8 FLORAL MARINE

A classical floral bouquet associated to marine and mostly sea-breeze notes.

 

B9 FLORAL FRUITY

Since 1995, modern fruity notes have bloomed. The floral "body" is still there, but new fruity notes are showing strongly. There are apricot, raspberry, melon, litchi, pear or apple...

 

 

C THE FOUGERE FAMILY

This imaginary name which does not claim to represent a fern fragrance, consists of a blend generally made up of lavender, woody, oak moss, coumarin, and bergamot notes.

 

C1 FOUGERE

 

C2 FLORAL AMBER FOUGERE

A fougere accord blooming through a floral note lying on an amber-labdanum background.

 

C3 SOFT AMBER FOUGERE

These classical fougeres have an amber background whose smoothness is enhanced by vanilla notes.

 

C4 SPICY FOUGERE

These are basic, very classical fougeres, characterized by the presence of floral notes and above all the addition of spicy notes such as clove or pepper.

 

C5 AROMATIC FOUGERE

A fougere, of course, but closely linked to a citrus group, herbaceous, and above all aromatic such as thyme, wormwood, coriander, rosemary and sometimes light spicy notes.

 

C6 FRUITY FOUGERE

The base is a classical fougere showing the fruity tones noted in the floral fruity subfamily.

 

 

D CHYPRE

This name comes from the fragrance of the same name brought out by COTY in 1917. The success of "Chypre", made it the leader of this family which contains fragrances based mainly on harmonies of oak moss, cistus, labdanum, patchouli, bergamot, etc.

 

D1 CHYPRE

 

D2 FRUITY CHYPRE

Still the same Chypre harmony but fuller and enhanced with fruity notes such as peach, plum and exotic fruits.

 

D3 FLORAL ALDEHYDIC CHYPRE

This is the "floral aldehyde" canvas adapted to a floral Chypre combination rather than simply floral.

 

D4 LEATHER CHYPRE

To one of the already described structures, leather, smoky, burnt wood, animal notes are added to one of the above structures and these compositions are sometimes rounded off with a fresh, often citrus note.

 

D5 AROMATIC CHYPRE

Definitely Chypre, often floral (lavender) and dominant aromatic notes : thyme, wormwood, juniper, coriander.

 

D6 GREEN CHYPRE

In this type of note, there is a contrast between the fresh green top note (cut grass, crushed leaves) and a warm base.

 

D7 FLORAL CHYPRE

This is the Chypre structure with the addition of floral notes such as lily of the valley, rose, jasmine.

 

 

E THE WOODY FAMILY

These are warm or opulent notes, such as sandalwood and patchouli, sometimes dry like cedar or vetiver, the top note is usually made up of lavender and citrus notes.

 

E1 WOODY

 

E2 WOODY CITRUS CONIFEROUS

Here we discover woody notes where pine essences play a large part, with top notes of citrus fruits.

 

E3 WOODY SPICY

A gentle woody fragrance -predominant spicy notes : pepper, nutmeg, clove or cinnamon.

 

E4 WOODY AMBER

The base consists of warm, rich notes such as vanilla, hay, coumarin, cistus, labdanum, patchouli and sandalwood.

 

E5 WOODY AROMATIC

Woody harmonies mostly make up these compositions, often lavender, sometimes green, but always with an aromatic top note such as thyme, wormwood, myrtle, rosemary, sage.

 

E6 WOODY SPICY LEATHER

The woody spicy accord is increased with leathery and animal notes, like birch-tar and castoreum.

 

E7 WOODY MARINE

Interesting harmony with a woody aromatic accord combined with marine notes, increasing the thyme and armoise notes.

 

E8 WOODY FRUITY

A tree, some fruits... nothing is more natural... We find here again the newest fruity notes.

 

E9 WOODY MUSKY

The woody accord is blended with a musky accord. We also find spicy, fruity, aromatic or ambery notes.

 

 

F AMBER-ORIENTAL

Under the heading of "AMBER" or "ORIENTAL", we find fragrances with soft powdery notes, vanilla, cistus, labdanum, animal, very dominant. Is there a typical "amber" note ? Certainly ! See under "soft amber", six groups of ambers are listed.

 

F1 SOFT AMBER

This is where we find the most classical amber fragrances. They are recognizable by their softness and warmth and their particularly dominant aura.

 

F2 FLORAL SPICY AMBER

On this amber base there is a noticeable spicy note and the floral contribution is very distinctive (e.g. carnation).

 

F3 CITRUS AMBER

These amber products sometimes have a floral character -their citrus top note is quite pronounced.

 

F4 FLORAL WOODY AMBER

In that type of amber notes, the woody character is typical while the head notes are playing with floral variations.

 

F5 FLORIENTAL

A more subtle blend of the amber note in a strong olfactive harmony. Dominant notes : floral, fresh, spicy which integrate well into a very consistent bouquet.

 

F6 FLORAL FRUITY AMBER

The amber note is definitely here. The floral note can be diversified. The fruity note relies on apple, pear, apricot,

raspberry, strawberry, plum.

 

 

G THE LEATHER FAMILY

This has an exceptional formula, a slightly different concept of perfumery with dry, sometimes very dry notes, in the aim of trying to reproduce the characteristic fragrance of leather (smoke, burnt wood, silver birch, tobacco...) and top notes with floral inflexions.

 

G1 LEATHER

 

G2 FLORAL LEATHER

These are the "linear" non-aggressive leather notes, enhanced by floral notes : violet, iris, etc.

 

G3 TOBACCO LEATHER

The leather note is tempered with wood, honey and hay harmonies which characterize the virginian tobacco note.